So I’m back in Ireland, working in Dublin. Found a room for rent pretty near work, which is pretty near Awesome Walls, which means only one thing… it’s time to get fucking STRONG! :-)

Si gave me one of the best bits of advice anyone’s ever given me. Don’t full crimp indoors. It makes perfect sense. Yes it may help me to get up problems, but that’s not the point. The point is to get strong, and all full crimping achieves in that regard is taking work away from the fingers. Plus full crimp = potential for injury.

I’ve cut it out completely since he told me that. I’m choosing to fail on problems now rather than crimp my way to the top. It feels safer, and my forearms really feel like they’re getting more of a work out.

I’ve also just started this program:

It turns out that the type of training I’ve always done on the beastmaker (7 second hang 3 second rest 7 second hang 3 second rest etc etc) is more for endurance than maximum finger strength. Woops. Ideally I should have been doing something along the lines of the above video first, and then building on that.

Dublin’s pretty good for advice. People like Neal and Ricky floating about throwing out bits of knowledge. It’s great. There’s also no shortage of people looking to get out on the weekend. Weather permitting, I’ll be filling the car and hitting Wicklow or Fair Head most weekends. Whole world of next problems and routes for me to try. :-)

« »