Just back from a brilliant two days in Glendo. Want to curl up in a ball and go to sleep, so I’ll keep this short.
Saturday was amazing. Blue skies, lots of people about and lots of skin on our fingers. I was climbing with Daniel Tubridy for the weekend, and after a good warm up, and a quick look at Nu Rails (still feels nails…) the madness began.
We went over to Quality Control (6c). Daniel figured out nice beta for the opening moves, and 15 minutes later we’d both done it. We met up with Paul Mallee and went over to BBE (7a). Paul got psyched, and did it. I got jealous, so did it too. Daniel made some good progress, but it eats skin quickly.
Next it was over to Big Jane. We had a look at The Groove ss (7a+) and I was getting much further on it than before. Paul walked up it… We spent a while playing about on Andy’s Arete before joining two other guys, firing 5 mats under Rhythm and Stealth (7a), and going for it.
I went first, and got it first go (I’ve done it before, but was nice to do it again). Then Paul did it, and Daniel and one of the other guys started working it. Daniel gave it a good flash attempt, but then tiredness began to kick in, and he never got as close again. The other guy eventually figured out all the moves, and blasted to the top for his 1st 7a.
Next it was off to Chillax (6c). Paul did it. I did it eventually, although there was a small bit of a dab so I might go back again some time. Next it was off to the Nu Rails boulder to join the Marnanes. I tried Superstars of BMX (7a+), and watched Kev beast it. Then Sean sent Nu Rails. By the sounds of it he’s been working it for years.
It was probably 6 by this time, so we headed over to look at Johns Roof (6c). Paul dished out beta, but I found an easier way and got in a few minutes. Cool problem. Love finding sneaky beta. Sean, Kev and Dan all managed to do it pretty soon after that.
We finished up with a quick look at Dec’s Pyramid (6c), and to end they day. I flashed some nearby 6b.
So that was my super productive day. A 6b, 3 6cs and a 7a. Think everyone had a pretty great day. Headed back to Kev’s place, and spent the evening watching the boudlering world cup.
Headed out again on Sunday with Dan. Bit cloudier and colder. We were both wrecked, and skin was pretty thin, so we didn’t really plan on getting much done. We played around on a few 6bs on Big Jim and both managing to do Duffy Slap (6b+).
Next we went over to check out a cluster of 7as Kev had recommended. Fuck all Left, The Goat, The Cherry, and Afro Left. We weren’t really going to get up any of them at this stage, but we had a play on The Goat and Afro Left. Two amazing problems. The Goat is easily one of the coolest problems I’ve seen, and I’m going straight for it the next time I’m out. Classic sloper traverse.
Then Sean showed up, and after a play on Afro left, we all nipped up the boulder field to Black Art (6c). I’d tired this before, and wanted to get it done. Managed it second go, and was pretty pleased. Sean figured it out pretty quickly and before long he’d done it too.
Myself and Dan were pretty much done, so we just hung around for another half hour, and showed Sean the other 7as. He blew my mind by flashing The Goat, making it a pretty impressive weekend for him. To top things off, when I got home, I got a text to say he’d managed to do Afro Left after we’d gone.
That’s it anyway. Great weekend. Got loads done. Saw loads of new problems that I want to do. Psyche is high for Wicklow.