So, firstly, I need to mention something I completely forgot about…
The weekend before I went off to America, myself and Jono headed out to Glendo, went way up the hillside, and did a few new problems. Video below (Jono named the problems…). I’ll get to why this is relevant shortly…
So anyway. Piaras came up to Dublin this weekend. Sunday wasn’t forecast to be too great, so we decided to squeeze as much in as possible. We got out to Glendo by 9 Friday evening, and climbed by head torch till about half 12. Pretty epic. Good conditions, clear sky with a bright moon, good breeze, lots of deer about. Piaras managed to do his only Glendo project (Greg’s Problem), while I had a pretty productive night, climbing Tim’s Mantle (6c) and some 6b+ beside Greg’s Problem, and later flashing Al’s Arete (6c). Eventually we got sleepy, and an hour later, we found ourselves sleeping in my car, having been too tired to cook dinner/pitch a tent.
Saturday morning was gorgeous, which unfortunately meant that by 9 the car was unbearably warm, and sleeping in was out of the question. With nothing better to do, it was back to Glendo.
What followed was a long and exhausting day. Firstly, we went up to the problems in the video above. Why? Because I’d left my hat there 6 weeks ago. I got it back, and it was in perfect nick. Win! While I was there I spotted a cool looking slab, and after 20 minutes I ended up adding an amazing 6c to the area. I was pretty pleased
Then it was back down to the valley floor. Piaras was learning quickly, managing to do Howard’s Roof (6b), the thing in the picture above, and also The Rails (5+, but he wasn’t able to get it the night before).
I had a pretty good day to, almost doing Superstars of BMX (7a+), before doing Nu Rails (6c) and Andy’s Arete (6c). I was over the moon with Nu Rails. It’s fucking hard, and I’ve tried it every time I’ve come to Glendo over the years. Yay for progress! We ended the day playing on 2.4 Pascals (7b/+) with the Marnanes. A few pointers from them had me doing the second move statically. Now that I’m finished with all the 6cs, it’s on the the 7s and putting more time into things. Thing Pascals is pretty much top of the list.
That was pretty much it. The long days, short sleeps and skipping dinner caught up with us, and we were both pretty fucked on Sunday. Ayton’s Cave would have been on the cards if we’d had more energy, but we settled for some routes in Awesome Walls.
P.S. To all you trad lovers, I’m bouldering to get strong for routes. So don’t worry.