Been a while since I last posted on this. Seems I have less time for regular posts, so might move towards the odd big posts from now on.

Anyway, last post was on a Friday. The rest of that weekend turned out to be pretty good. While most people were looking at the rain in Dublin on Saturday, I was out around Wicklow Head in the sun with a few people. Good day.

Sunday was a pretty horrible day, but myself, Steve, Niamh, Dan and Patrick decided to give the cave a go. The guys spent the day playing on Loco (7a), and I managed to remember the moves to Solstice (7a+), managing to do it on my second go from the start. Was pretty pleased, as two years ago when I’d last looked at it, I couldn’t do the crux on it’s own.

Next, I got sick, and was out of action for a week or so. Not that interesting.

What then… oh, so I’ve been following this training program since I moved up to Dublin. Neal brought some weights into the wall, so I was able to set up a pulley system, to measure/control how much weight I was taking off with the sling arm. I was horrified to find that I needed to take ~25kg off before I could do a one arm hang for 10 seconds. That’s like a third of my weight!! WEAK!! Anyway, the only way is up, so I’m moving to using the weights from now on, attaching them to my harness. Hopefully I can take off a kg every week or two, and see progress that way.

Finally, I went up to Fair Head this weekend with Steve, Daniel, Patrick, Cormac, Piaras and Peter. Good crowd. :-) Ricky also had a few Polish friends visiting, so the place was pretty busy.

Saturday was a stunning day, which meant that all the silly people that decided to go bouldering (everyone bar Piaras and Cormac) spent the day greasing off the rocks, and I also got some pretty horrible sun burn. Ricky explained the need to cool down in order to send, and I learned that I have abnormally sweaty fingers, and that hiding in the shade between attempts does help.

Anyway, just to go over the highlights, after warming up, we spent ages at Carbide (7a), and I managed to get to the jug on the lip, and then Ricky guided me through the top out. Tick! :-) Was well pleased. Dan and Patrick were both coming ridiculously close, and will probably walk up it next time they’re there (probably next weekend :-) ).


Next we watched the Polish play on Super Extra (7b/+) for a bit. Amazing looking problem, and one of them got so close to sending it, falling on the last hard move. Definitely a problem I’d like to invest some time in some time in the future.

Some of the guys called it a day at this point, and myself Dan, Patrick and a guy called William decided to check out the Eat it boulder. I’d wanted to try Leftovers (7a), but the landing was terrible, so I gave the guys the beta for Eat it (7a) and Stop Feeding It (7a+). I’d done them both two years ago, but with nothing else to do, I ended up repeating them both for funzies. William managed to do SFI before heading off, while Dan was making good progress, and Patrick was finding strange ways of climbing Eat It.

We got back to the tents around 7, few beers etc. Cormac and Piaras showed up at half 11, with tales of epics.

Sunday was a bit messy, with me deciding to join Tom for some trad, only to get to the crag and find he’d gone off to top rope something. With wind and cooler temps, I decided bouldering would be a good move, and after a while walking around the boudler field shouting “MARCO!”, I finally found Dan and Patrick and some Polish, and then Ricky found us, and finally we all found Daniel O’Neill, who was working an amazing looking line.

Born Sticky

We joined him, trying the stand (7a+) which he’s done last week, while he worked the sit (7b+). At first pulling on felt nails, but I was soon making progress, and realising it was the coolest problem I’d ever tried. Within half an hour one of the Polish guys sent it, but after tow hours, and after one or two very close attempts, I was starting to tire, and called it a day.

Then it got a bit colder, Danny sent the sit start, and I said fuck it, threw on my shoes, went for one final go, and got it. :-) Very pleased. I’ve some footage of some of my attempts, so I might throw that and a few other bits together over the next week or two, but for now, you’ll just have to believe me when I say that it’s an amazing problem. Get on it!

So that’s it. Fairhead meet this weekend coming. Probably do bit of trad, bit of boudlering. Lots to do either way. :-)

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